One Day...

Arrive in Los Angeles from Sydney

2009-01-12T02:44:00.000-08:00

Fresh off a flight, 12 other members of the Kelley Klan meet us in Los Angeles to kick off the Guatemala tour. Late night out, early wake up sets the stage for a very long but fun week. The Bride and Groom Arrive!

I just love whatever it is my dad is doing in this shot...

Sarah & Mike get engaged, set for another Kelley wedding next August!

So I surprise Sarah by passing the Tiara!! A special token, leftover from high school years, to be worn during all wedding festivities prior to the wedding.

Look at her, she's lovin' it!

Bud Kelley Unplugged

2009-01-12T02:22:00.000-08:00

45 people clad in Bud Kelley T shirts! One of my favorite nights of the trip. A unique gift for my dad, Bud Kelley, a special solo performance by the world renowned bagpiper. It was truly a great party, and dad rocked O'Reilly's pub in Antigua, the only Irish pub in all of Guatemala. Initially he was shocked and maybe even a bit shy, but eventually he turned it around and put on a great show!

The GANG!

Fresh off a tour with Rod Stewart and Brian Adams...

That's Heather trying to River Dance on the bar.

I believe this is early on in the evening...

The Main Event!

2009-01-11T22:41:00.001-08:00

The Groom and his Best Man.

Mike & Janice trying to stay composed....but it's all waterworks.

Sarah and Rich nervous about their readings I think!

Little Ricky taking all very seriously. I think perhaps he's trying to look good for Fin.

Papi and hija.

Bride and Groom!

Post Ceremony followed by bubbles...

2009-01-11T22:37:00.001-08:00

Yeah, we've sealed the deal!

I love bubbles!!

Welcome to the Kelley's Mike....there will be plenty more of this in our lifetime.

Parents, can't thank them enough for their support!

The Kelley's and Manion's together.

Family Photos of Wedding

2009-01-11T22:29:00.000-08:00

Sarah, Janice, and Heather.

The main culprit, she who we cannot thank enough! Unfortunately, due to the amount of tears shed this day, Joan claimed that is the last Kelley wedding she will ever do.

All the boys, including Anthony, of of 2 Australians who made it to the wedding!

My beautiful siblings.

Us. I like the sound of that.

The Party Starts...

2009-01-11T22:17:00.002-08:00

Heidi y Rosita

My cousins, so cute.

Papi....ah, love that man.

Sister Sarah and Mike, not far behind!

He makes me laugh all the time.

Chichicastenango

2009-01-11T22:11:00.000-08:00

Chi Chi was just one of the fun places to share with Mike. The markets are huge, colorful, and fascinating.

The Honeymoon

2009-01-11T21:48:00.000-08:00

After accomplishing our goals in Todos Santos and introducing Mike to old friends, we enjoyed the comforts of Lago de Atitlan one more time. Words of advice, dropping the word "honeymoon" often leads to decent upgrades and royal treatment. We stayed at the very famous Casa Azul in Antigua before heading to Atitlan. A private villa and chef awaited us at Atitlan, it was hands down the most luxurious experience we have ever had. Not wanting to miss the weekly party at Iguana Perdida, we headed over for a night of dancing, and drinking charity shots. Last, we spent a few nights in Santiago in a beautiful hut. Our last day, we climbed San Pedro with a very strong guide. Tough climb, but worth the views. A good topping to a great honeymoon.
San Pedro, a quick and steep ascent.

No worries here....Mike is only following suit. Iguana Perdida provides women's clothing for all on Saturday evenings. Charity shots help support local women buy gas stoves, thus saving the forests of Guatemala. We just simply wanted to help out....

Villa Atitlan....

Que luxurioso...

The charming Casa Azul, Antigua. Another good stay and treat for our honeymoon.

Lago De Atitlan - Guatemala

2007-11-19T10:04:00.000-08:00

My 3rd trip to Guatemala and I am still amazed by the rich culture. Sad to not have my typical travel companero, Moik, I am so happy to share these experience with Javier, Lucia, Diego, Tony, and Maria.I can't seem to get enough pictures of San Pedro from the view of my room at La Casa.
Our last supper together before I headed off to Australia to meet up with Mike.
Diego is soaking up some rays while enjoying the views at La Casa Del Mundo.
3 Tacos for 10 Q makes for a favorite lunch stop ($1=7.5Q, you do the math!). I stopped at 3, but I'm not so sure the others did.
Hiking along Lago de Atitlan between Iguana Perdido and La Casa Del Mundo, not a bad way to start my day.
A charming and comfortable room greets me at La Casa!
The ever expanding Casa Del Mundo...

Frenchman's Coulee

2007-11-04T12:29:00.000-08:00

Frank and I had a spectacular sunny day Saturday Nov 3rd. Leaving the drizzle of Seattle behind, we hopped to Vantage to find warm weather climbing! Kevin left behind to prepare his driveway with a fever reaching 100 degrees. Somehow he was gracious enough to cook up some steak for Francine and I....how did I work that?? Beer, steak, warm weather climbing!

Frank getting ready for our warm-up!

It felt good to lead something that made me a little "uncomfortable". I think I was crying at some point, or at minimum, whimpering. Good thing I didn't read that "R" rating until after I finished (for non-climbers, "R" makes reference to the fact that sections on this climb are dangerous and you may want to consider placing extra protection...which I in fact did not have.)
Phew, I'm almost down, that was scary.

Frank getting ready to rappel, can't help but notice the blue skies and sunglasses!

August 2007

2007-11-04T12:08:00.000-08:00

Ok, August was a very eventful month. Mike and I returned to Seattle, sort of. Still living out of our backpacks and plane jumping throughout the continental US, we lead a hectic schedule, especially for the relaxed one we were so acclimated to. Between family reunions and Mike asking me to marry him in front of my dad, some big changes were about to transpire! I have all these eventful photos, yet my sporadic computer use has caused me to slow down on the updates.

I did manage to record Orcas Roll 2007, which was once again a complete blast, and seemingly ever expanding event, with 30 adults and 14 children! I felt very honored as Didiere, our Steve Braun Memorial Triathlon host sang and danced along to the Jellyfish Song as promised in an earlier discussion.

Jaime and company smiling at the views of Mt Baker on our way to Orcas.
Our mighty hosts.
The Jav is looking just a little too sneaky.
I may have actually won the triathlon last year, according to Laurette. She was 7-1/2 months pregnant at the time.
The ever famous "JELLYFISH SONG"!

Greece - Ikaria

2007-07-20T09:39:00.000-07:00

Ikaria, pronounced eeh-ka-ree-ah, is one of the less touristy islands near Samos. With sheer mountain cliffs plunging into the ocean and winding roads that make the locals toenails curl, this biking trek made for a hilly and challenging ride. Our ride across the island took us through some parts some islanders called, "rugged", possibly we traveled through some sort of time warp...our strong legs have conditioned to peddle faster after all! Hoping to catch the festivities of Ikarian Independence Day, we realised too late that the party doesn't start until 1am. Still, a very relaxing and hospitable island.
Transport is as sophisticated as high performance motor cycles and Audis, or as mellow as a donkey. After being in a Kombi for 3 months, I'll take the donkey, some of the motorist seem to enjoy their Euro Rally Racing.
Dionysos is a very hospitable hotel in Kambos. They don't take boarders for only 1 evening, but fortunately our island trek by bicycle brought much pity upon us, refusing to turn us away, especially by the looks of me. Whereas Mike claims, "I could happily ride the Comfort 2000 all day in this 95 degree heat", I can only say, "I'm a snowboarder".
Almost everything is blue and white, and I love it!

The comfort 2000 takes a rest in the shade, it's traveled over 1000-km throughout Greece!
I've had two bathing suit blowouts, and I'm somehow trying to convince Mike he really could use a new pair of flip-flops. Life in our Endless Summer.
The port at Edvilos was a great place to park and wait for our ferry home.

Turkey - Selcuk, Kusadasi, & Dilek Peninsula

2007-07-14T07:10:00.000-07:00

After touring Ephesus and St John's Basilica, we enjoyed a quiet evening in the town of Selcuk, sipping coffee and playing competitive games of backgammon. Determined to see more, we hopped on our bikes and peddled another 60-km to Dilek Peninsula, where a natural reserve with hyena's, wild cats, and rare seals live off the land. Much of the park is closed off, but hopefully in efforts for preservation. We stayed only 1 evening in a town outside the park, which seemed to have only Turkish locals and tourists. It was good to get away from the mainstream, but we were excited to return back to Samos!

Five flat tires later, we head for home....I mean Samos! Back to island life.

Sipping Turkish coffee takes me back to my childhood days when I was sporting a collection of mini ceramic dishes for dolls. Funny fact, there seems to be a dispute, is it Greek coffee or Turkish coffee?
A local man quietly enjoying his day in the central square. Hopefully pedestrians don't stray too close to the building above him, it's not the camera that's at an angle!
Mike anticipating a hearty Turkish meal of pide (their version of pizza), meatballs, and stuffed eggplant, all of which was probably stolen by the Greeks later on. Well, at least according to the Turks!
If you look closely, you will see a string of tourists bathing under an old castle. I suppose that's one way to appreciate ancient ruins.
The exit gate of Ephesus sells plenty of quality products.

Turkey - Ephesus

2007-07-14T06:35:00.001-07:00

The most preserved ancient city in the Mediterranean was only a 50-km bike ride and 1-hr ferry trip away into Turkey, known as Asia Minor. Rich in theological and cultural significance, this city was home to the Virgin Mary and St John amongst others. It is believed that after Jesus was hung on the cross, care of Mary was turned over to John, one of his closest disciples.

Flattened throughout time, much restoration has rejuvenated the magnificent library of Celsus. Archaeologists and builders continue to rebuild this city, a project already over a 100 years old in itself.
Along the outer wall of the Library of Celus, four recesses contain female statues representing wisdom (sophia), knowledge (episteme), intelligence (ennoia) and virtue (arete). For some reason, only wisdom and virtue still have their head intact.

A form of Medusa protects one of the many temples.
Once, a giant brick loaded basilica guarded over the Tomb of St John, however after many wars these ancient stones are now a part of the surrounding homes. My good friend Kathy shared some interesting history with me. It is believed that John was imprisoned as an old man, not far from our home of Samos. Is was his imprisonment on Patmos where he received his vision and wrote the book of Revelation. It is an honor to be surrounded by so much incredible history! -Heather

The 100 degree weather may slow down restoration, but certainly the work continues and the crowds still gather!

Thinking the heat might bring a peaceful walk through a very interesting ruin was the wrong expectation!

Greece - Samos

2007-07-08T07:03:00.000-07:00

Another hectic day whiled away at a taverna.
A scenic hike to our hidden cove, required a small amount of rock climbing and bush wacking, but well worth the adventure.
Morning ritual includes coffee and catching up on novels.

Enjoying the surf at our secret beach. My birthday present from the island of Samos.
Look at right side of screen, you can see our not so hidden cove. Rock face to left of beach provided a solid descent.

On our way up to the mountain village of Manolates, looking down on a timeless scene.
After riding bicycles around for so long in the heat, we decided to trade up for a couple of days to explore the island by scooter. Not exactly Harley Davidsons, but they were still pretty fun.

Literally trapped in a web of vines, our friend Babish served up some good ole Greek food and threw in some fruit and kisses for free.

Tassled hair from scooter riding didn't stop me from going in public.
It's funny when you realise that your life has become a postcard.
The sleepy little village of Manolates scattered with some pottery and art shops, a couple of tavernas and cafes, and beautiful scenery around every corner.

Mike negotiates with the local fruit vendor, front door delivery!

I'm finally learning how to play with my camera, I've been so busy up till now. -Heather

Exiting Athens for island life.
Trekking down the river from Potami falls. Coming from the mountains, the water here is so refreshingly cool.

Greece - Meteora

2007-06-21T07:33:00.000-07:00

A view of Monastery St Nicholas Anapafsa from our hike.

Mike and I opted to hike the old cobbled stone paths the steeply wind through the lush forest below the pillars of rock, connecting the monasteries.

Mike considers taking the traditional method of entry into the monastery, a giant hook and hanging net, attached to a sturdy pulley and cable system.

Monestary Nicholas seems to sit precariously on a lone pillar.
The view of Kastraki from Meteora.

Monastery Varlaam
The monasteries have a very conservative dress code. Fortunately they provide some stylish skirts for the ladies sporting pants or anything above the knees!
Taking a break with Varlaam Monastery in site.

Meteora, meaning "suspended rocks", is one of the most fascinating group of monasteries in Greece. Originally 20 "moni" were built with complex scaffolding and ladders by hermit monks trying to retreat from Turkish occupation. Once established, the ladders were removed to provide the optimal refuge for worship and prayer.

Only 6 of these structures remain, as well as ruins amongst the sandstone pillars reminding us of a unique form of determination and vision. The monasteries are now shared by an international community of rock climbers as these pillars provide the ultimate substrate for the avid climber. Had temperatures not been in the 100's I would have surely conjured up some gear as there was plenty of sport climbing offered! -Heather

Greece - Zagora & Horefto

2007-06-18T09:37:00.000-07:00

Bike Greece! So we bought some used bikes and saddle bags, perhaps their first touring expedition. Our first day we set off from Volos on the Pelion Peninsula with Zagora and Horefto as our destination. Departing in the afternoon heat, we climbed 1300 meters over 24 miles in the first push. We decided to take a break at the top of the mountain range in Hania where a small ski hill entertains locals in the winter! The next morning was all downhill (thankfully!) to Zagora, one of the most charming villages I've have seen in Greece. -Heather
Zagora is the village where my mother's family came from before emigrating to Australia. It is the fulfillment of a lifelong dream to visit here, and do so on bikes was the perfect way to take in the beauty of the area. It is truly a magical place. -Mike

The view of Horefto on our descent from Zagora. The 8km road leading down is SO MUCH FUN on our bikes. Going back up...a little more difficult.

Vendors of all sorts including potatoes, garlic, and in this case chickens drive throughout the village with megaphones advertising or park on the side with a van-load of goods. The best kind of drinking fountain, mountain fresh spring water. Much needed after riding in the hot sun.
Slated roofs add a very decorative appeal to Zagora.
Mike and his Comfort 2000, perhaps the best engineering to come out of China! Perhaps a little heavy in the tail, but talk about a smooth ride!

The view of Zagora from above.

A photo sits on my Mom's desk of my grandfather sipping coffee in this platea in the center of Zagora. Grandson following suit, and it looks as if nothing much has changed in the intervening years.
A naturally adorned house in Zagora.

Greece - Athens

2007-06-18T09:29:00.000-07:00

The Acropolis of Athens is as beautiful as it is historically significant for European culture. Enveloped by the city, it still demands your attention rising over 500 ft from a relatively flat Athens. During our walk through this most famous acropolis, we relished in history. Due to mass reconstruction, there was metal scaffolding masking better photography, however we were able to enjoy great views from our hotel roof-top. -Heather
The Old Temple of Athena

Detailed workmanship of the Parthenon
Clyde and Ethel hope to watch a production in the famous Odeon of Herodes Atticus, the outdoor stone theatre sitting on the slope of the Acropolis!
The Acropolis of Athens of the theatre of Dionysus of Eleuthereus.

Egypt - Sharm el-Sheikh

2007-06-18T09:11:00.000-07:00

Sadly this area was struck two years ago with bombs, freezing the tourism in the area. Although the disaster is still fresh for many, the industry is slowly picking up again. Plunging into the water off our hotel in Shark's Bay, it was clear to understand why this is one of the top destinations in the world for diving.
Unfortunately I did not have an underwater camera to site one of the largest and most unique fish I've ever seen, a Napolean. About 4 to 5 ft long, it looked like a hybrid between a deep bottom dwellar and a parrot fish. Apparently on the top 100 endangered species list, this smart bloke sticks around the cove because tourists feed him.
Shark's Bay, the view from our villa was not so bad!
The hotel staff clearly enjoyed creating large oregami structures and strategically placing Clyde and Ethel to great us. Mike's genious left an oregami tip, clever Mike.

Egypt - Marsa Alam

2007-06-18T09:03:00.001-07:00

The Bedouin influence in Egypt is striking with it's rounded architecture. We stayed in a very cozy cottage just north of Marsa Alam, where the water's of the Red Sea are vibrant with colorful fish and water the deepest blue. We tested out some shore dives, but the current and waves were a little strong, so visibility was tough. Still, it was great place to park for a few days.

Egypt - Felucca Journey on The Nile

2007-06-17T10:52:00.000-07:00

The felucca, the common mode for transport, touring, and relaxing on the Nile was our home for 2 nights! Our trusty captain and crew, Ahmed and Gaby, prepared incredible food and took us their family's village for dinner one evening. Of Nubian descent, it was yet another taste of culture.

Gaby and Ahmad providing some drum and song.

The sails weren't cooperating, so captain and crew had to do some climbing!

Egypt - Valley of the Kings and Queens

2007-06-17T10:29:00.000-07:00

Mike and I decided it would be far more adventurous to rent bikes and tour the Valley of the Kings and Queens. Due to some mechanical issues (to no surprise) we missed the Tombs of the Nobles, but were quite happy with our morning journey in heat pushing 100 degrees. Being independent travelers and not seeing as many tourists as we thought we might encounter throughout Egypt thus far, it was shocking to see the bus loads of tourists visiting the infamous valleys. Apparently the package deals are far more common, nor do too many think of biking through the Valley. As no cameras are allowed within the tombs, we cannot share the secrets within, you'll have to check out for yourself!
A small village that seems to blend in with the sand and the tombs. The Nile River is a beautiful stage for the Valley. A balloon ride over the Valley of the Kings at sunrise!
I managed to get a picture "away" from the crowds in the Valley of the Kings.

Egypt - Luxor and Karnak

2007-06-17T09:52:00.000-07:00

The Luxor Temple commands the little city of Luxor acting as a prime destination for tourists and city square for locals. However, the Temple of Karnak seems to dominate in size and beauty and was once connected to Luxor by a row sphinx several kilometers long.

After a long day of tomb site-seeing, the very pleasant owner of Ali Baba complemented us a couple extra plates of food that we felt "obliged" to eat. It was a fabulous restaurant sitting on the second floor with a open walls and a view overlooking the Luxor temple and square. Great food and ambience. We then trailed to the Nubian cafe for tea and dominos, another friendly visit with locals who were fascinated some tourists were blending in so well they actually asked us if we lived in Luxor!

A felucca sailboat on the Nile at sunset.
A kind gentlemen who was all too kind to show some of the better highlights of the Karnak Temple and take photos, of course for a little baksheesh (or rather mandatory tip).
Vivid color survives over several millium.

Sphinx that once connected the temples of Luxor & Karnak.
A very tall palm tree.
134 columns still stand in the Karnak temple.

Cairo, Egypt

2007-06-17T09:34:00.000-07:00

Slightly disappointed I didn't see Indiana Jones frolicking through the streets in pursuit of ancient treasure, Cairo is certainly not a city to be disappointed by. Women traveling alone may want to come up with a strategy, otherwise the city has culture, trendy restaurants, atmospheric ahwas (coffee/sheesha houses) and miles and miles of markets. Mike and I literally became lost in the city market. Too exhausted to make our final destination we parked at an ahwa, sipped lemonade to recover from the heat, and retreated back for an afternoon nap. Poor us.

Satellite dishes seem to be a part of every rooftop almost everywhere.

Egypt - Giza Plateau

2007-06-16T04:06:00.001-07:00

The Giza Plateau.

Not as small as it looks, the Pyramid of Khafre stands 471 ft. Nevertheless it is smaller than his father's, Khufu, in the background which originally stood 481 ft, but has eroded to 455 ft over time.
Mike and the Pyramids of Khafre and Menkaure look over the city of Giza.
Plenty of tourist opt for the carriage or camel ride up to tour the plateau.
Clyde, Ethel, and the Great Pyramids of Giza, what lucky sock creatures are they!

I had no idea that the great pyramid of Khufu, one of the seven wonders of the world, watches over the city of Giza! One doesn't have to travel far from Cairo to see these massive pyramids and the Great Sphinx.

Rwanda - Lake Kivu

2007-06-12T02:06:00.000-07:00

Ken, Misti, and little Simone
Post-ride Celebration at Paradise, we were fed great food, complements of the owner!
Upside down Ken and Simone

He's having it rough...
Every night the fisherman leave the village by boat, hand paddling, humming and singing a song that carries over the water. They return early in the morning, truly a beautiful sight.

Another relaxing couple of days at Lake Kivu happened to be a very adventurous introduction to Rwanda. Our first afternoon Mike and I ran through the village, accompanied by about 50 to 80 children, older ones who ran our entire run, and others so little (4 to 5 yrs old!), running along side in flip flops!

We then had our first mountain bike adventure with Ken, again descending trails not so much meant for bicycles, but rather skinny walking paths through fields of beans, corn, and sorghum. The trail was pretty difficult, but we couldn't help but enjoy the excercise, especially to finish up with some complementary food provided by our hotel Paradise.

Rwanda - Camping in Akagera

2007-06-10T10:48:00.000-07:00

Ken, Misti, and Simone shared one of their favorite camping spots with us in Akagera. We spent the evening hoping to spot some passing giraffes, and Misti wielding a smores stick, to present a little bit of America for the international crowd we were camping with.

Rwanda - Climbing

2007-06-10T10:37:00.001-07:00

We spent many days enjoying Ken's home-made wall at home, in preparation for some actual rope climbing and bouldering. There were yet another set of curious onlookers, and a little audience during our last climb who gave cheers when we all ascended a more difficult route during the day. Enjoying vistas and climbing with friends Manfriend, Odile, and Ken, it was another spectacular day in Rwanda! -Heather

Rwanda - Catching up with Ken

2007-06-10T10:17:00.000-07:00

Well, we never literally caught up with Ken until he actually stopped riding! Here are some great pictures of our descent and our post-ride celebration over Mutzig. -Heather

Rwanda - Mountain Biking on Mount Kabuya

2007-06-10T09:59:00.000-07:00

You won't see too many photos of our guide Ken, because he's just too fast on that downhill bike. Ken organized the first descent by mountain bike of the 5th largest peak in Rwanda, Mount Kabuya. Shuttling part of the ascent, mostly to save energy for the uncertain road ahead, we managed to climb another 1000 feet. Joined up by most of the village children living on Mount Kabuya, we took a small rest before descending about 3500 feet. Fields strung together with skinny single track made for an exciting descent, filled with technical rocks, steeps, and fast cross country sections. It was adventure riding in it's true form, and one of the most exciting parts of our trip! Pictures from our many mountain bike rides are great way to get a sense of the lush landscape, village culture, and curious people. -Heather

Resting at the top of our climb isn't so much a rest as we are the spectacle for all the village children. Joining us on our uphill climb, they very enthusiastically run alongside us, screaming or chanting, "mzungu" translating to "whitey". It would be the first time mzungus have descended this drastic landscape by mountain bike, so we were jointly excited in that. A very curious and friendly group of children were happy to entertain some photography. -Heather

Rwanda - Mountain Gorillas

2007-06-09T08:44:00.000-07:00

"Uuuuummmm, there's a gorilla on my leg." That is the precise reaction I had when a young female decided to push through the group, find my leg, grab onto it, then sit down on my foot. A more rare interaction and certainly not encouraged, I must admit it was very exciting to have a gorilla snuggling my leg! The silverbacks have been know to throw onlookers into trees, but fortunately I just had a very curious and friendly female. This was another highlight of the trip, as we saw the largest known silverback amongst the mountain gorillas! -Heather

I admit, at first I was sceptical about spending an exhorbitant amount of money for an hour with mountain gorillas, but by the time I was up there, every penny was worth it to be with these amazing creatures. The trek in the Volcanoes National Park (and a little bit in the Congo when our guide got a little lost on the way home) was stunning, and once we were with these gorillas time stood still. It was as if they were checking us out as much as we were them. They were a bit drunk due to eating bamboo shoots (of course I tried some, and of course it was disgusting) which may have something to do with the silverback's attitude toward us. Maybe he was just jealous of the attention Heather was getting from one of his females. I heard this a lot before we went, and now I know why, but...if you ever get the chance, you HAVE to go see them! -Mike.

Bushara Island - Lake Bunyoni, Uganda

2007-06-04T09:14:00.001-07:00

Lake Bunyoni means lake of many little birds, and on Bushara Island there is certainly a concentration of these. This place provided a beautiful peaceful environment for us to collect ourselves for a few days. Life moves pretty slowly here, so slow in fact that you had to order your lunch at breakfast time, so that they have enough time to prepare. Which was perfect. Things did pick up, however, when we took the laser sailboat out for a circumnavigation around Bushara, and got some nice wind. The rest of the time was spent relaxing over scrabble and the delicious food. -Mike

Jinja -Uganda

2007-06-03T10:50:00.001-07:00

Making our way through Kenya to Uganda, we were determined to find the River Nile Explorers and raft The Source of The Nile! Unfortunately I don't have pictures to document one of the most adventurous moments of our trip, with several Class V rapids including a 10 foot waterfall! It can't be too dangerous as I don't really have experience doing this, being less worried about crocodiles than waterfalls. We managed to escape a lightening storm that was following us, wishing my sister Sarah had been there for as she likes to tease my slight fear of lightening. Who would have been laughing then? Admittedly, still not I.
Cozy huts on the Nile, great food, and a great group of local and international guides! -Heather

The rafting was so much fun, I could have done it every day for a month. The kind of fun that makes me giggle nervously, then say, "again, again!" Stunning surroundings with such a sad and temultuous history was amazingly contrasted by vivacious, friendly and happy locals who were so gracious and genuinely excited in sharing their environment with us. I'd go back there in a heartbeat. -Mike

Mombasa -Kenya

2007-06-03T10:22:00.000-07:00

One would think 3 months in Australia would make one weary of the beach. However, a little too much inland time and Mike and I were craving some sand and sun to accompany the hot weather. We unfortunately did not make it to Lamu, a world heritage site on the north-east coast. The roads sounded dangerous, however we met many the independent traveler who found it safe and worthwhile.
We stayed in a humble villa 15km south of Mombasa, Tiwi Beach. Friendly, warm and beautiful, but a better time to hit the beaches here are in fall and winter when the seaweed growth is minimal and the water is clearer.
I wouldn't encourage anyone to consider the "Colonial Dinner Train" that runs through Kenya. New ownership from South Africa has let this once 1st class gourmet experience turn into a harrowing journey with break-downs and shabby restrooms. It took 2 full days on a train to cross Kenya, leaving me a little queazy as we approached Uganda.

Lake Nakuru -Kenya

2007-06-03T10:12:00.001-07:00

The Flamingos at Lake Nakuru -Kenya

2007-06-03T09:52:00.000-07:00

If we had an "East Africa Bird Guide" there would be about 500,000 ticks next to Phoenicopterus roseus. Standing there in the midst of this massive colony of pink birds along the shores of Lake Nakuru is forever etched in my memory as one of the most impressive things I have ever seen. -Mike

Sausage Beer

2007-06-03T09:49:00.000-07:00

OK, so it doesn't taste anything like sausages, but I was intrigued, and had to try it. After touring through the Masai village, I had my doubts especially given that everything was either made of, or covered in, cow dung. However, we asked our host, and he graciously organised a mug that was delivered from one of the houses. It was explained that the beer is made in a bucket with water, honey, sugar and the chopped up fruit of this sausage tree. It is fermented for a week, and then voila! Surprisingly, it actually tasted somewhat like beer (with a little cow dung aftertaste), although, after taking small sips, Heather and our friend Wan made me finish the rest of the mug for some reason. Oh well, bottoms up! -Mike.

Masaii Mara - The Tribe

2007-06-03T09:30:00.000-07:00

I have mixed feelings about taking the "village culture tour" during our safari, which is an additional cost and relatively expensive. The Masaii are one of the most popular tribes through East Africa, often making the other tribes feel resentment for the amount of attention and money they make from these cultural tours. They do live a tribal lifestyle, travelling nomadically throughout the country side, existing with ancient traditions and dress. They have an obvious agreement with the government to continue their lifestyle, allow visitors for a tour, yet sadly are not allowed into the game parks, although not uncommon to see them within the park).
I respect their need to generate income, however it was very clear they were far from enthused about having visitors come into their homes and show some dance routines. It was all very systematic and awkward. I did manage to get some smiling faces when I showed the ladies photos of themselves, they did like that. Their homes are made of cow dung, which usually holds for about 9 years, and the herd comes in at night, into the village. We had the fortune to try some of their special brew....SAUSAGE BEER!

Masai Mara Reserve-Kenya

2007-06-03T09:07:00.000-07:00

Everything about Africa you have learned from afar is real. The wildlife, the tribes, and even the red sunset that seems to warm you somewhere deep inside with dusk casting its shadow over the savanna. However, expecting to be camping in the middle of the bush with pristine white tents, while elephants and lions harmonically pass your tent curious about the delicious pots of food cooking over your campfire, you may be disappointed. Bring your own toilet paper, a bed sheet, and be prepared for more than enough authentic Kenyan food, and an old army tent with curious critters flying about as permanent residents.
Don't be mis-guided, Mike and I were very pleased with our Safari and Paul, our guide of 12 years experience! For reference, check Marble Travel (and ask for Paul!).

Masai Mara Reserve-Kenya

2007-06-03T08:41:00.000-07:00

We flew into Nairobi April 7th and were on our way for safari the following day. With plenty of driving on under-developed roads, our mini van made some surprising feats through the savanna (fortunately because I did not want to be pushing while lions and cheetahs were roaming only feet away). We were lucky with minimal crowds dry weather, and tons of animals!

Waterfalls, Beaches, & Sugar Cane

2007-05-30T01:02:00.000-07:00

More of beautiful Mauritius!

Mauritius

2007-05-30T00:35:00.000-07:00

Flying from Sydney to Kenya, we had a forced 5 day stay on Mauritius, a small island in the Indian Ocean and popular destination for many. Our hotel was a small colonial house shared by the owners, who called us by our first names and provided with more than enough hospitality (Villa Jorico!).
Within 3 days we circumnavigated the island, visiting the colored sands, giant tortoises, sugar cane fields and water-falls, gorgeous beaches, and kayaked at sunset from the villa. -Heather

Leaving Australia

2007-05-30T00:21:00.000-07:00

Our last day in Sydney was spent with Megs and Pat sailing the Sydney harbor! Negotiating our way to and from the boat was an adventure of it's own (small skiff pictured above!). For myself, I couldn't have asked for better company to wrap up my Australian adventure! -Heather

Swimming With Dolphins!

2007-03-26T14:26:00.000-07:00

In our last week of camping, we met up with Megs and Pat from Sydney in an area called Seal Rocks. With great surf, a Nurse Shark reserve, and clear water, we spent the weekend enjoying good camping, fishing, and heaps of swimming. As we were leaving Lighthouse Beach, a large pod of dolphins started slowly swimming in our direction. Pat suggested we "swim with the dolphins". Brilliant idea! We ran towards the water, stripped back down to our swimmers, and swam out to the wave the dolphins were frollicking in. They are great surfers, riding the waves and jumping out of the water. The closer you get, the more "sharky" they start to look...

Springbrook Rain Forest

2007-03-26T14:00:00.000-07:00

If you love steep canyons, waterfalls, and sweeping views of lush rain forest, then Springbrook is a strong recommendation! Climbing up into the hills off of the Gold Coast, a former volcanic crater has left behind a tropical oasis. We hopped on our bikes and toured all the waterfalls, then hiked down into the forest and took a swim down below!

Koalas Aren't Bears

2007-03-26T13:41:00.000-07:00

Koalas are marsupials, and if you call them Koala Bears, it just gives the locals another reason to tease you. They aren't cute, cuddly, friendly, or soft. Their fur is rough, their claws are sharp and very large, and they fight like maniacs when they're about to breed. I didn't care about any of these details, I almost payed money to snuggle with one at a zoo. Despite all the horrific facts about the fascinating unbear, I was determined to find one. We headed to a reserve boasting hundreds of Koalas. I saw one of the elusive marsupials in a tree at the entrance, probably fed up into it each morning before the tourists come. The pictures included are of a captive one, which was still cute, to me. We kept a safe distance and managed some really cute photos!

Noosa and Sunshine Coast

2007-03-21T22:49:00.000-07:00

After flying back to Brisbane after the wedding, we continued our Kombi adventures up north to the Sunshine Coast. The waves were just the right size for Heather to practice her surfing, and she caught her first real "green" wave. Other highlights included lots of wildlife, kangaroos (check out the big alpha male!), more big lizards, feeding sea eagles fish on the beach at sunset, and surfing at Caloundra beach with a big group of sea turtles. Lovely area. The Kombi's annex even managed to weather a storm and remain intact!

Pat & Elissa's wedding

2007-03-21T21:41:00.000-07:00

One big treat for me being home at this time was that I would be able to attend Pat and Elissa's wedding. So we jumped on a plane (extravagent, after travelling in the Kombi) to Melbourne for the weekend festivities. Amazing what a hot shower, a good shave, and a borrowed suit can do to clean one's image up (we hardly look like Kombi dwellers at all). Patrick is an old uni friend of mine, so the whole Newcastle crew were there, and all in fine form. The wedding was lovely from the ceremony to the delicious meal and wine and the recovery BBQ on the Sunday in the park. It was a great celebration, and a fun chance for Heather to meet all my great friends from Newcastle days.

Ballina-South of Lenox

2007-02-24T22:02:00.000-08:00

Well, the Kombi didn't quite make it to Byron Bay, our destination. So we ended up just "South of Lennox" in Ballina. A quaint little costal town with less tourists and bigger surf (not so good for me!). Fortunately, Mike purchased premium roadside insurance, which sported us for a week at the Leisure-Lee Apartments, with "Magical Water Views". I can't totally complain! We caught our first legal fish for dinner and enjoyed beautiful sunsets from our balcony! Next stop....Byron Bay, so Heather can work on her surf!

Billy Tea

2007-02-23T22:21:00.000-08:00

To say that Tea is an important part of the Australian culture is like saying that the Universe is kind of big. Everything begins, and ends, with a "cuppa" to the point where sometimes I wonder if I'm going to dissolve. That said, I like a good cup of tea. Not just for the tea itself, but the whole ritual. One such tea ritual that is part of our cultural heritage, is that of making "billy tea", perfected by the various swaggies (essentially travellers of "no fixed abode") that used to roam the country looking for work, and camping by the sides of billabongs and such. A billy is essentially a tin-can with a handle. My Dad, no doubt proud to have a homeless son, fashioned us a billy out of a can he found in his workshop and gave me fatherly advice as to the proper technique of preparing the billy tea. Bring the water to the boil first, then add a tea-spoon of tea for each cup, and an extra one for the pot. Add the sugar. Bring back to the boil for a few minutes. Then (preferably outside the kombi van), the billy is swung rapidly in giant circles to settle the tea. Apart from being a lot of fun, the tea actually tastes really good.

Beware of the Murrumbidgee Mud Sharks

2007-02-23T22:12:00.000-08:00

Continuing on the "country" leg of our tour, we stopped overnight on the banks of the Murrumbidgee River, in the town of Gundagai. Most Aussies are familiar with a song about Gundagai, "there's a track, winding back, to an old-fashioned shack, along the road to Gundagai..." One of those, "one-day" things I can now cross of the list is actually going to Gundagai. And although we didn't see the shack, or the track, we did meet some really lovely people. Turns out the spot we picked to camp overnight is a pretty popular swimming hole with the locals. One guy warned us about the Murrumbidgee mudsharks, which had Heather going for about a few seconds before she figured out it was a joke. In fact, there didn't seem to be many fish really. Although we were determined to catch something. Only problem is we didn't actually have any bait. So being the resourceful couple of kids we are, we improvised. Heather tried a vegemite-dipped raisin while I tried a piece of bread. Then I found some discarded MacDonald's french-fries on the rocks and tried them too. Needless to say we had a lovely ravioli meal that night!

Kelly country

2007-02-23T21:53:00.000-08:00

Ned Kelly, that is. So after a lovely (albeit hot) winetasting in the Yarra valley, we came up through northern Victoria, through the alps and into a pretty special part of our country and our history. As a kid growing up in Australia, we are all taught about the history of the notorious Kelly gang: a band of wild Irish bushrangers who roamed this part of the Victorian countryside, giving the rich British squatters and cops a very hard time. The Irish were very much an underclass in the early colonial days, many of whom, like my ancestors, were essentially rounded up and shipped off to Australia to be used as slave labour. Upon pardon (if they were that lucky), they had to work hard to eek out a living for their families and were often harassed by the police. OK, maybe some of them actually deserved it, since they were Irish after all. Anyway, Ned Kelly, and his brothers got a bit tired of all this, and decided to take matters into their own hands. They were sort of like "Robbin Hood", in that they stole from the rich, and well, at least some of it went to the poor. The Kelly gang were finally captured after a bloody shootout at Glenrowan, and Ned was hanged in Melbourne gaol in 1880. His final words reportedly were, "Such is Life". We had the pleasure of stopping through Glenrowan which is about as kitsch touristy as it gets (see photo). Although, staying overnight the previous night in the bush in Strathbogie gave us a lot better feel for what the Kelly gang experienced as it was touted to be one of their bush hide-outs.

Yarra Valley Wine Tasting

2007-02-21T22:20:00.000-08:00

Since we brought our mountain bikes, I thought it would be a great idea to tour the wine valley with them! The day we set aside to do this tour of 5 wineries, temperatures reached into the 100's. Carrying water packs, we stay hydrated in between our tastings. Ironically, the wineries treated us extra nicely due to our crazy efforts, which is probably the last thing we had needed, more wine. On our 4th stop, we rested in the shade munching melted cheese and nearly fresh baked bread, as they were cooking in our packs along the way. The 5th winery I started hallucinating and getting dizzy which made the last 3 mile rolling push to the car very exciting. Still smiling, we made it back safely and quickly pushed forward to find a water hole. -Heather

Kozciusko Mountain!

2007-02-21T22:17:00.000-08:00

I couldn't come to Australia without seeing the ski areas and ascend the highest peak! Although there was no snow, you can see the the mountains during winter are beautiful with their spread of gum trees. Perhaps not very steep or technical, Australians come from all over to ski, embracing it just as much as many Washingtonians I know.
Mount Kozciusko, the highest peak in all the land, sits just over 7000ft, and we were able to mountain bike almost to the top!

Octopus Whisperer

2007-02-21T22:02:00.000-08:00

Diving fiercly (literally) into the fishing scene, our 3rd evening on the road was rewarded with an ocotpus! After hours of trying to snag some bream or whiting, I was indulged with the 8 legged beast. Given their muscles reflexes, a dead octopus doesn't entirely mean a still octopus, and the first one I caught was an emotionally disturbing experience in part. However, Mike was a champ and happily skinned, chopped, marinated, and cooked up our second seafood dinner we would earn (the first being the lobster!).
We spent a very special 2 days in Bittangabee Bay in the Ben Boyd National Park, and very quiet and empty campground deep in the national park, thick with giant lizards and stalking possums. With great snorkling, I had no idea I would come across yet another octopus, which was quite a surprise meeting eye to eye under water! After fishing for almost 2 days and catching nothing legal, I was determined to have more earned seafood, even if it meant another 8 legged squirmy octopus. He gladly took up my bait, however broke my line. I didn't want him to die for no cause (and my tummy ached for more fish...), so I felt I needed to at least retrieve the bait. With a knife in my mouth, snorkle, and Mike's assistance, I battled with the octopus underwater and coerced him to our bucket. Being professionals at this point, the catching, cleaning, and eating was a far smoother process and great eating! -Heather

Pretty Beach Poach Discovery

2007-02-21T21:56:00.000-08:00

Our first evening in the Kombi was celebrated with a can of ravioli noodles mixed with a delicious blend of squash and zuchini acquired from an unattended stand holding an honesty box. Honest souls we are, we dropped in our coins, cooked up some food, and complemented it with champagne!
We discoved that the Kombi is a great "poaching" device, allowing us to avoid the camping fees while we enjoy scenic views of ocean waves smashing on coastal rock, private little coves, and forested national parks. We simply pop the van top, uncork the wine, and cook up a mean bowl of canned food! -Heather

Bundeena

2007-02-13T01:24:00.000-08:00

Bundeena is a hidden treat, a small alcove hidden amidst the Royal National Park just south of Sydney. Only 3,000 individuals are allowed to live in these pristine waters, surrounded by a lush forest of eucalyptus trees, wild goana lizards, and hidden coves. Fortunately Mike's parents are part of that community, sharing it with some of Australia's most elite artists and doctors.
Feasting on lobster my first evening was a clear indication of how special this place is!
This being our home-base, we will spend many weeks here in transitions, having a difficult time leaving and getting back on the road. Between boat races on the channels, private coves for swimming, some the best snorkling (as fish from the Great Barrier find their way here!), and obviously great fishing, all I need to worry about are avoiding the giant goana lizards which range up to 3-1/2 ft! -Heather

Lobster

2007-02-12T23:14:00.000-08:00

So it had been about 6 weeks since I saw Heather, and finally she had gotten on the plane and was on her way. It had been a very busy time here by myself, catching up with family and friends, travelling around Australia a little (Queensland, Newcastle, and down to Melbourne visiting various friends), and picking up the 1976 VW kombi van from South Australia that I had bought on ebay (gotta love the internet). But today was to be a special day, the adventure (together) begins. So I thought I'd arrange something a little special for dinner. OK, to be honest, it was an absolute fluke! I found a lobster pot underneath Mum and Dad's house here in Bundeena a few days earlier. I bought some bones from the butcher shop for $2, tied one into the pot that and put it in the water just out the front of their house. I had been checking it everyday, but nothing... that is until Heather arrives. I went and picked her up from the Airport early in the morning and drove her back down here. After the ceremonial welcoming cup of tea with Mum and Dad, we decided it was time for a swim, and killing two birds with one stone, I thought I'd have a peek at the pot, and low-and-behold there was dinner! Yummo!

Preparing for departure

2007-02-12T23:10:00.000-08:00

Mike flew out to Australia on Monday, November 27th. I am left to wrap up my massage practice, enjoy a bit of snowboarding and enjoy some Christmas cheer with friends and familly. I leave for Australia on January 9th to join Mike, where we will start our adventures together near Sydney, visiting Mike's family and friends!

Crystal Mountain Loop

2007-02-12T22:59:00.000-08:00

Our adventures do no not start with Australia. Fall of 2006 brought many weekends up in the mountains, riding up long fire roads to beautiful views of Washington's best scenery, followed with challenging single track descents with technical and exposed obstacles! At the top of Crystal mountain with Rainier in the background, we are happy to share another sunny fall day!